Today - Marais From Place Bastille to the Pompidou Center

I am not sure, but I think I'm getting the hang of this Paris Holiday. When I first so cavalierly booked 17 Days in Paris - that's right seventeen - I thought it a little crazy, but that's just me. I arrived on Monday after three cities in three days and a cruise of two months with ten cities. I hit the place running. Well I got pretty exhausted. Just as I wondered about how people could take these cruises for a week to ten days and go to ten to twelve ports in that time while I was on my voyage at a wonderful stress free pace. We would see a big cruise ship pull into dock in the morning and be gone before dinner. What could those people possibly see in 8 hours.
Well, it has finally dawned on me that I don't need to see ever sight in the first four days. I'll be here for another thirteen. I have walked today paused every half hour or so to sit on a bench, watch the people go by and check my Rick Steves' guide and then plot my position on maps.me map of Paris(great app if I haven't said so before. You down load the maps by country and area - free - and then you can see exactly where you are WITHOUT WiFi). I took off this morning about nine, got a croissant to munch on the way and headed for Place Bastille. Yep, it started to sprinkle a bit, but by eleven the sun started to peek through and it was a beautiful day.
I went to two museums today. The Carnavalet and the Pompidou Center. The former has an incredible display of France and Paris specifically that goes from the earliest man to the WWII. I was overwhelmed with the amount of detail and little small personal pieces they displayed. The Modern Art  at the Pompidou was extensive and had some works I had not seen before from Man Ray and Kees and a few others. The building was unique and a great space. Needs some work to the outside though.

Yes, I like reflections! Sculpture display at Pompidou

Paris has been the home of many famous writers, painters, actors, etc. and I stopped by Victor Hugo's old digs in the Place des Vosges. This woman was playing her violin with such depth and range and then I saw she had a playback for the rest of the quartet.

Today I had a stuffed pita with fresh veggies and curried chicken, for you food fans. Everywhere you turn there is a monument, pretty little park or just a seat at a street side bistro to enjoy in this city. So far, I am very happy I decided to visit.

Bon Soir and have a great weekend

Montmatre

Paris is a wonderful city that allows you to walk, stroll or run. The Parisians stroll - arm in arm and usually smoking. The Americans run for some silly reason and those who must work in this city have to walk. They park their cars, though most have motorcycle/scooters(that sound like they are riding lawn blowers), anywhere they can find an open space. They are of all ages and women ride as much as men. They go to great lengths to cover themselves in the rain, from wrap around cages with side flaps to leg guards. And they zip along, rain or no.
I was talking about walking. That's what no must do here. New York is a walking city as well, but you usually pop on to the subway. I haven't yet joined that group, but I will tomorrow.
Montmatre is the section of Paris that was once the 'countryside' near Paris that had a wall separating it from the city. Wine was taxed in the city so the working folks started going to Montmatre to drink, also for lower rents and that's when the 'starving artists' of the 1800's moved in. I started off at Sacre Coeur Cathedral on top of the 'mont'. Truly a beautiful chapel with a huge rotunda. They didn't allow photos, though I joined quite a few to 'steal' shots. Just couldn't use the old tripod. Crank the ISO and we deal with the noise later. The view of the city is marvelous and quite a panorama.
Saw the Dali Museum, Renoir's home, as well as Van Gogh's and Toulouse-Lautrec's homes. They were just a few blocks from the Moulin Rouge. What a time that must have been.
Here's my little Boulanger just around the corner - and I need to stop by.

Now, doesn't my pix of Sacre Coeur look just like all the rest?

Haven't decided on what activity to pursue, but it will involve walking, That's a given.

Bon Soir

Cafe Gourmand

Here I sit by the computer (I find it easier to reach that way) to write you of today's adventures. It started off by not starting off! I awoke to a downpour and rethought my schedule for the day. I need/wanted to rid myself of some weight after the shipboard life and went in search of a packing and shipping company. Still haven't found one, but DHL was the winner of sorts. I use UPS as my receiving address at home and they have seemingly abandoned Paris. The post office could but I just couldn't bring myself to use them and for the cost that FedEx wanted I could have just tossed the stuff away and bought new when I got back and still saved money. Well the girls at DHL were most helpful and with a few laughs along the way, the box is leaving France tonight and will arrive back home on Friday.
Didn't really take many shots today what with walking about in my box quest, but here are a couple from yesterday's marathon.

The Fountain near the Sorbonne

HDR has a weird time with water. It looks like ice flows.

The Fountain at The Luxembourg Palace with little sailboats

I am starting to like the 'panorama' function of the camera. See, it was sort of rainy.

The Eiffel from the Seine. Love the clouds. 

Of course, I got to the Eiffel

As to the 'Cafe Gourmand" that started this blog. I don't drink coffee at home but I will have an espresso upon occasion. I discovered this treat the other day and it makes a perfect little 'picker-upper' in the afternoon. It is a demitasse of cafe with three or four (depending on the restaurant) mini desserts. They can be ornate little tartes or a simple fruit cups and glace. What ever they are, it is a great way to take a rest and refresh.

Bon Soir, mes Amis 

WiFi creates a Habit

Here I am returned from my day's outing, and while I download the photos from today, I can blog and put up yesterday's - or in this case - photos I like on the first pass.
Remember it was misty last night _

The Eiffel seen past the Arc du Carrousel

Can you guess where?

Today's journey - and it was as I look back, and might think I dumb to have done it but 'Silly Rabbit' here did. I am staying in the 2nd Arr. just to the North of the Seine and the Tuileries. I walked past the Forum du Halle, which was the old central market but is now being totally rebuilt as a city 'hub' of shops and artist/small business addresses. I reached the North bank of the Seine (Rive Droite) and crossed to Notre Dame. It being mid-day the lines were further than you could see. Walked to the back side of the Cathedral, crossed to the small Ile St Louis, as it began to rain again. Hungry? Why not. Rick Steves' recommended the Med restorante and I had a fabulous cream of vegetable soup and a crepe, also good. 

Here's my first aside:

I have told myself not to get trinkets for the kids, a) their old enough to not need them, b) I can't choose right for them anyway!! Now I didn't get them anything yet, but my grand daughter is fair game right? Now we have a Auntie Em (my sister-in-law) who always finds the neatest gifts for everyone at christmas and b'days but I believe I found a shop that out Auntie Em's Auntie Em. It is called Pylones (www.pylones.com) and I won't tell you what I bought Dahlia (on the off chance my kids might read this, but you go there and check out there crazy, colorful goodies. It made my day.

So, after a light lunch and a great shop find I moved on to the Rive Gouache and headed for the Shakespeare and friends bookstore. It has been here since the end of the war and many a young struggling writer has found a room above while they wrote. Then it was on to St Sulpice (Had to go inside ONE church today) and on to peek inside of the Sorbonne courtyard. Couldn't walk around but the guard let me take a few shots just inside the arch. It started to clear up now with the sun coming thru so off to the Jarden du Luxenbourg. The three musketeers weren't there dueling Richelieu's guards but the kids were out launching their little sailboat on the waters of the grand fountain. The sun peeks out and everyone runs to soak up some sun. Apparently it has been a wet August for France and not much sun for the Holidays.

I looked at my map and said - well the Eiffel doesn't seem to be that far away (hehe) so westward ho. I did make it there by some miracle and I found the rest of the tourist. Lines were creatively wound under the tower for each tower, with security checking everyone and the first armed soldiers I had thus far seen. The dogs were getting a little hot by now and though a Citron Glacie hit the spot - several of them - I started the march back along the Seine. I got as far as the Assemblee Nationale and grabbed a cab. You add up the miles I am still marching.

It was now about 5:30 and I didn't feel like eating out, but with no food at the place, down the street for a little shopping the French style. I went to a Fruit Stall for some berries for breakfast - Raspberries and blueberries, my favs - then to the Rotisserie for a piece of chicken, leg and thigh. When was the last time you had or saw a capon?? So large I have tomorrow lunch in the bag. But I wanted some cheese to go with the grapes I got, so to Fromagerie.  The little street was full of couples and homeward bound workers doing the same thing I was, and every salesperson helped me through the 'menu' even though they didn't speak much English. The food fresh, flavorful and beautiful. It is amazing what we Americans have allowed the Grocers and Agribusiness to do to our food stuffs. Anyway, I sold.

Downloads complete and I will go through them on my way to bed.

Bon Nuit, mes ami.

Paris in the rain

Morning Sports fans, Here I am in Paris, checked into my little studio for the next 16 days and though I arrived in the afternoon and it started to rain - that farmer's rain, not hard just drizzly and prolonged - I wanted to get a few things for breakfast plus a little wine for the place. Check! the area around the place is full of little shops and stores and I will explore it more thoroughly in the coming days. I caught up on my emails and blog, as you can see, and then said 'This is stupid!' Sitting around and you're in Paris!!
Out the door, turn left and follow Rue du Clery for two block, turn left on Rue du Louvre and before you know it you are passing the yes - the Louvre and there is the Seine. On the left is the Pont Neuf and the Notre Dame and on the right, in the distance is the Eiffel Tower. Yes, it kept raining but I got back before it really started.
Quick travel note: Don't use statues, especially those of nobles on horseback, as direction markers. They're everywhere!
Today, I  am starting slowly. Got a chance to talk to the kids on Skype last night (9 hours difference) and that was great.
Explore Paris Day One
Later

Rouen and let's talk food

I have not mentioned food on this expedition so far as a) I didn't think you need to hear about the food on the voyage - think college dorm food, or I said "If you don't have pasta or potatoes at the meal, it must be ashore." b) I promised my self that I wouldn't be one of those people photographing their food, and I have usually been hungry and just wanted to eat.
Well, I am now in France and great food is everywhere. Here the 'entree' is like our appetizers, the 'plat' is the main course and often all you need; and of course 'desert'. Yes, that's desert. Now you can order any meal with one, two or three (and in some cases a fourth - cheese before desert) for you meal. Yesterday, while in Bayeux, it was raining off and on so I decided to wait to go looking and have myself a lunch at a Rick Steves' recommended restaurant. Ok, I went a little overboard and got 'soup to nuts' and they say. Here, however, soup is seldom on the menu and nuts might be on the salad on the cheese plate. I order a 'complet' lunch - entree, plat, cheese and desert. Wow! The pate was of rabbit and came with salt & pepper, pickles, and a sourish compost. I asked the waitress to suggest a wine for the pate and it was a sweet sauterne. Alone, very sweet - with the pate - perfection. The 'plat' was a breast of duck done to perfection and I could have chosen several cheeses from the region, but only picked three and they were unique and tasty. Now, desert - a small apple 'pie' with vanilla ice cream. Think pilo around a three inch blend of apples and caramel with a demi-scoop of fresh ice cream. I waddled out of there. Oh, the restaurant's name - 'Le Pommier'. (Believe me I don't and won't do this everyday.)
Today, I have decided to rest in and then just see the sights of Rouen at an easy pace. It being Sunday there has been little to no traffic and just families out and about. My walk brought me to the outdoor market and everyone in town was there to buy their Sunday dinner. You name it - Cheeses, meat both cooked and butchered ready to cook, seafood, pastries and of course clothes and furniture. Everything you could need. I got a baguette, some pate, fresh strawberries and a tarte with raspberries. A small and filling picnic by a fountain in a nearby park. Perfect!
The Cathedral is magnificent, especially considering that it was almost totally destroyed in the war form US bombing. Rouen being then and now a major shipping port for this area - up the Seine. Joan d'Arc was burned here so there is plenty of monuments and churches about the town.
Let's try for a couple of photos today.
Mont St Michal at sunset.

And here is the view from my room at the Hotel Norte Dame here in Rouen. Sometimes in life you have to look past the weeds to find a beautiful view.

Enjoy and tomorrow I head for Paris for 17 days of the City of Lights. Hope I survive the pickpockets at the station.

Later

Mont St Michal

What a day - Number one in the French series. It has been rainy and overcast most of the day and the trains from Cherbourg to Mont St Michal are more rare than hen's teeth. Since it was rainy, I figured I get a head start on the trip and take an earlier train than recommended and go to the transfer station at Lison. Mistake - Instead of spending three hours walking around Cherbourg I had three hours in a small country town with one bar/restaurant and a few closed shops. Then it started to rain heavily when I decided to see what may be around the corner. Aside from nothing, I was able to jump into a bus kiosk and avoid much of the wet. That was me in my blue rain coat and huge duffel bag watching the rain.

Well once I got to Mont St Michal, most things changed for the better. The owner of the B&B thought I must be nutz to not have a car - but that's me.

I when to the Mont as soon as I got into my room and I got some great shots - downloading now as I write - but I'll have to wait for Paris to really work on them if not until I get home.

Tomorrow I get up early and head for Rouen via Bayeux to see the tapestry. Two days in Rouen before Monday's trip into Paris. Yeah!

Talk Soon.

SAS Finished, France Begins

I can't believe that I have been without internet service for almost a month. The voyage was wonderful and I would recommend it for anyone wishing to drop off the grid for the length of the trip. Just bitching. When you believe that connectivity was 'state of the art' and you discover that two tin cans and a string is faster and uninterrupted.
We landed in Southampton this morning and after we cleared customs I was off to the railway for the short ride to Portsmouth and the Brittany ferry to Cherbourg. I am using their wifi and so far so good. Just a quick note to let you all know that I am alive and moving on to Europe for stage two of my expedition. I am hopeful that I'll be able to post much more frequently ( but that won't take much will it?)
I'll be staying tonight in Cherbourg and then off tomorrow to Mont St Michal.
More sooner!

I got to my hotel in Mont St Michal tonight and found I could upload a photo as though I was home. This is from Gdansk - Neptune's Fountain in the centrl old city.

Late.