Saturday, September 6, 2014

Versailles

Yesterday - Friday - I took the very short journey to Versailles. And then walked all day - about 10-12 miles with the walk from the train station, thru the Chateau, thru the Gardens, then over the the Grand and the Petit Trianon and of course to Marie's Farm Village and then the walk back to the train station and a mere few blocks from the Metro stop to the Apartment. I'm tried again just thinking of it. So I slept in and will go over to some nights to see that side of Paris.
Versailles is Enormous! I think that between here and Petersgof in Russia it maybe a tie. Peter used a lot of Gold on the inside and the outside. Louis XIV used less and little outside - save the gate and accents but much better sculpted ceilings. Both suffered through Revolutions that destroyed or diminished the splendor of both. I see the French working on the repair of Versailles, but the Russians are really putting in time and money on Petersgof. Both are amazing to say the least. That some rulers would spend so much of their GDP  on their little pet luxuries is - wait a minute - I think I would rather we spent more money on that sort of artistic creations then on arms. I know their attitude was wrong, but the collective artistic achievements were staggering. Now, our government at least cuts spending on everything artistic. (Sorry, Getting off the horse.)
The gardens are very - everything! Beautifully arranged and though the fountains were off, and the largest is under repair for another year, it is easy to see the splendor. But it must be the farmer's roots in me, but I thought the farm village that Marie had built was marvelous for the historic value at least. I had always thought she built a barn and a little house to remember her homeland. But it is several houses - a village - and still a working farm. Everything raised and grown there was for the Royal table and today you can buy the produce in town marche.
As usual, I am downloading the images from yesterday now as I write this and will see if there is anything I can quickly put together for this blog. It is taking a long time today as I shot 1100 pix.
Panorama of Entrance
Need to use this more often.
Overcast works well sometimes
Working on the rest and will drop a blog tomorrow.
Adieu


Thursday, September 4, 2014

What? Another day on Holiday??!

Some days you wake up and say to yourself, "Where do I need to go today?" Then you finish the thought with "In Paris!!" What a task, I have to tell you. Decisions right and left. All the time in the world. Where to go, what to do.
Great way to wake up! Paris laid out before you and after eight days of figuring this place out (haha) I have an other seven to just poke around and take shots. Tomorrow I go to Versailles.
Today was the Pantheon and a late entry to Notre Dame. I got there at about 3:30 and was inside in less then fifteen minutes. When I first got here, I went down to the Cathedral and the line was doubled back on itself three times and about an hour and a half to get to the door. I know I should have been excited to be inside and seeing the Cathedral of Paris from all those great books and movies, seeing the great glass windows and the glory and the majesty of the "Church". There was no line to hamper my time looking around, but I felt very under whelmed. I think Chartres was more impressive. Maybe it was the overcast day that prevented the sun from shining through those windows. That's it.
Came outside and almost froze, the temperature had dropped and again it looks like rain. It must be the season. Hoping Versailles will have a little sun tomorrow.

Pantheon

Notre Dame
I don't like my results from here as I had to shoot with a very hi ISO and no tripod. Have to work on them later.
Have a great day.

Wednesday, September 3, 2014

Today was the Louvre, WOW

WOW in so far as there is so much to see; WOW because the building itself is magnificent. And WOW,  I really hate Japanese tourists!!! One even told me to move so she could take a snap NOW with her friend posed in front of Renoir. I didn't even try to get close to Mona! I asked a guard if he sees many people actually looking at the works or do they just snap and move on to the next as they mentally check an 'important work' off a list. Important to whom? Obviously not them, they are just on this large scavenger hunt through the museums and monuments of Europe to see how many they can stand in front of.
But I did pause and rejoice for a few moments as I looked over the shoulder of an art student sketching a detail of a Delacroix. That's the way to 'see' a work of art. He was very good as well. I try to see the brush strokes and imagine how the artist painted the piece. Some of the Flemish painters used 'single hair' brushes in some places. Just Incredible.
Of course it was maximum overload for the second day in a row. Yesterday, I said Hi to 'ol Boney and even when through part of the war museum. Then I hit the Museum d'Orsay and that was max out Impressionists. Every one that you have ever heard of was there with most of their work. Heaven help us if ever there is a massive destruction in Paris. We would loose most of the world treasure of art.
Here's some shots from Yesterday:
In front of the Hotel Invalides
These are some of the cannon the French captured in their earlier wars. They of course can't display many cannon made for Napoleon as most of them are at the Kremlin in their "Trophy" rows and rows and rows.
Big Tomb for such a short man
I'm still downloading files from today, shot a few today, but nowhere close to what I have been shooting on the voyage. Tomorrow, I 'check a few' museums off my list and then Versailles on Friday. The weekend would be crazy and maybe a few people will wait for 'free Sunday'.

This is as close as I Got!!
One tour group after another. 
This is the Sculpture Garden
I will be working on some of the photos of the Louvre itself. The Grand Gallery and some of the Solons are magnificent. I would like to find a history of the Louvre itself and the kings and emperors who have put there mark on her. There are some books out, but they start to go into the art itself. I would like just the history. There is a two section exhibit of the 'history' and that is a great starting place.
Adieu 






Tuesday, September 2, 2014

Chartres - What else to Say

It was a lovely day trip to Chartres. Saw the Cathedral, walked the city a bit took the train back to Paris. That sort of sums it up, but...
The Cathedral was magnificent - being worked on, but that's a good thing - will get some shots put together of the inside soon?
Chartres Cathedral
For many, the beginning of the 1000 mile long Santiago de Compostela pilgrimage.
The town is a busy little place, I think school just started. I walked down to the river Erne, that was once the center of industry in Chartres - Cloth manufacturing. 
The peaceful Erne River
The building on the left was used to clean the cloth in the river and later as a laundry. The last load of river wash laundry was in the 1960's. (Speaking of which, I have to take mine across the street to dry. Washer here, no dryer??)
Had a nice meal of confit du canard and of course cafe gormund - this time with chocolate mousse and creme brûlée - not bad.
I even got to watch some real drama on the ride back as the train conductor 'caught' 5 people in my car who hadn't validated their tickets before they got on the train. That's a little yellow machine at the gate that stamps a time and place on your ticket. Big fine. 
Adieu

Monday, September 1, 2014

Holiday Post - For Americans anyway!

Here is my quote for today: "I would rather be the first to laugh at myself then have to wait for everyone else to finish." - me, today
Yesterday - Sunday - I got my Carnet Metro (Packet of 10 metro cards about the size of a raffle ticket), ventured forth into the yet untried Metro and with a transfer at the Opera station made it to Gare de Lyon and on to Fountainebleau. It is an easy thirty minute ride on the train and so much less crowded than Versailles (which I will do next Sunday when it is open for free- me and everyone else). Fountainebleau was built by Francois I 1527) and much loved by Napoleon. This is where he said goodbye to his troops on the way to Elbe. Much of the place is being renovated and closed, but what was there is worth the look, even if it is to just get out of the city and motorcycle noise. But after seeing the splendor of Petergof in Russia, this is not even in the running. The place is drab and dull. Hopefully Versailles is better.
Returned to Paris (sounds funny, doesn't it?) I made it for a late dinner at L'Escargot Montorgueil. Had chicken - not! Got a dozen of those little critters with truffles and soaked 'em up.
Who could resist going to this restaurant??

Here's the stairs where Napoleon say his farewells.
Time to head out for the day. Off to Chartres as the museum schedules are bad for the first of the week, but that also means it's Museum week pour moi.
Bon Chance mes amis.


Friday, August 29, 2014

Today - Marais From Place Bastille to the Pompidou Center

I am not sure, but I think I'm getting the hang of this Paris Holiday. When I first so cavalierly booked 17 Days in Paris - that's right seventeen - I thought it a little crazy, but that's just me. I arrived on Monday after three cities in three days and a cruise of two months with ten cities. I hit the place running. Well I got pretty exhausted. Just as I wondered about how people could take these cruises for a week to ten days and go to ten to twelve ports in that time while I was on my voyage at a wonderful stress free pace. We would see a big cruise ship pull into dock in the morning and be gone before dinner. What could those people possibly see in 8 hours.
Well, it has finally dawned on me that I don't need to see ever sight in the first four days. I'll be here for another thirteen. I have walked today paused every half hour or so to sit on a bench, watch the people go by and check my Rick Steves' guide and then plot my position on maps.me map of Paris(great app if I haven't said so before. You down load the maps by country and area - free - and then you can see exactly where you are WITHOUT WiFi). I took off this morning about nine, got a croissant to munch on the way and headed for Place Bastille. Yep, it started to sprinkle a bit, but by eleven the sun started to peek through and it was a beautiful day.
I went to two museums today. The Carnavalet and the Pompidou Center. The former has an incredible display of France and Paris specifically that goes from the earliest man to the WWII. I was overwhelmed with the amount of detail and little small personal pieces they displayed. The Modern Art  at the Pompidou was extensive and had some works I had not seen before from Man Ray and Kees and a few others. The building was unique and a great space. Needs some work to the outside though.
Yes, I like reflections! Sculpture display at Pompidou
Paris has been the home of many famous writers, painters, actors, etc. and I stopped by Victor Hugo's old digs in the Place des Vosges. This woman was playing her violin with such depth and range and then I saw she had a playback for the rest of the quartet.

Today I had a stuffed pita with fresh veggies and curried chicken, for you food fans. Everywhere you turn there is a monument, pretty little park or just a seat at a street side bistro to enjoy in this city. So far, I am very happy I decided to visit.
Bon Soir and have a great weekend


Thursday, August 28, 2014

Montmatre

Paris is a wonderful city that allows you to walk, stroll or run. The Parisians stroll - arm in arm and usually smoking. The Americans run for some silly reason and those who must work in this city have to walk. They park their cars, though most have motorcycle/scooters(that sound like they are riding lawn blowers), anywhere they can find an open space. They are of all ages and women ride as much as men. They go to great lengths to cover themselves in the rain, from wrap around cages with side flaps to leg guards. And they zip along, rain or no.
I was talking about walking. That's what no must do here. New York is a walking city as well, but you usually pop on to the subway. I haven't yet joined that group, but I will tomorrow.
Montmatre is the section of Paris that was once the 'countryside' near Paris that had a wall separating it from the city. Wine was taxed in the city so the working folks started going to Montmatre to drink, also for lower rents and that's when the 'starving artists' of the 1800's moved in. I started off at Sacre Coeur Cathedral on top of the 'mont'. Truly a beautiful chapel with a huge rotunda. They didn't allow photos, though I joined quite a few to 'steal' shots. Just couldn't use the old tripod. Crank the ISO and we deal with the noise later. The view of the city is marvelous and quite a panorama.
Saw the Dali Museum, Renoir's home, as well as Van Gogh's and Toulouse-Lautrec's homes. They were just a few blocks from the Moulin Rouge. What a time that must have been.
Here's my little Boulanger just around the corner - and I need to stop by.


Now, doesn't my pix of Sacre Coeur look just like all the rest?
Haven't decided on what activity to pursue, but it will involve walking, That's a given.
Bon Soir