Tuesday, September 30, 2014

Montalcino

Sometimes I wonder why I shoot during the day. The 'Golden Hour' of sunset is so lovely that you are often rewarded with wonderful shots when the subject around the image is only so-so, but the sunset is fabulous.
I went to Montalcino yesterday to see one of the many mountain villages in Tuscany. I had thought of going to Montepulciano, but when I was purchasing my bus ticket the agent said no, you will like Montalcino so much more. Rick Steves put them both down as places to go, but who can argue with a local at the bus station. Besides, there was a bus to Montalcino sooner. I went to the train station to leave by bus, after going up that escalator from the hotel to the bus station on the city mount, and then down those seven escalators to the train station and got on my bus to Montalcino. The buses act as the local transport for people and stop at various stops along their route. The first such stop was the bus stop across the street from the hotel. Oh well, it was a lovely climb, walk, descent to get my ticket.
The village is a quiet little place with little to recommend it save the beauty of the hills around there and the vino that has made it famous. I didn't know! Let us just say that the money I had not spent on gifts and things for myself is now shot. Two cases of very expensive and wonderful wine is on its way to SoCal.
Time for a wonderful lunch and roaming around and then back to Siena. I asked the bus driver to let me off at the Hotel.
Tomorrow it is off to Florence and the crowds of tourists.



Time for lunch
Ciao

Sunday, September 28, 2014

Siena

Attributing this to that 'someone said' column. Italian trains are never late nor are they ever early. Only the traveler is late or early. Yesterday I was early a lot traveling to Siena from Deiva Marina in the Cinque Terra area of Italy. (For those of you who don't know where I've been!!) I won't get into why I was told to go north to get my train going south, or the fact that doing so took an hour to get to where I started. Hey it's Italy and I'm on Holiday.
Traveler's are weird, I know I'm one, but it is one of those curiosities to me why you would go so far from home and sit with your travel companion and talk about the office gossip while not 'seeing' the place you are visiting. Two women from Austrailia (a long way from home) where doing just that as we past Carrara. I politely (yes, me) interrupted and pointed out the quarry on the hillside where the famous white marble comes from. An Italian woman next to me added how dangerous it still is to get the marble form the mountain, making it so expensive. One pulled out her iPad to take a photo, but was too slow and then they both went back to their gossip. To each his own!
Carrara to Pisa then on to Siena. The trains to Siena are diesel, the only ones I have seen so far on this trip. All others have been electric. Why here? The land was that of gentle rolling hills and Chianti grapes, small villages and peaceful streams. Very pretty.
Siena's train station is at the bottom of a rather deep valley and the city of course is on the hill. I lost count, but I think it was nine escalators that brought me to the top and a couple of moving sidewalks going up an incline just to change the pace. Thankfully I didn't have to climb to get to the city. At the top - no taxis. I like to grab one in the new towns to get to the hotel and then I will go exploring. No taxi - off walking. Maps.me is great to let me know where I am and where I'm going as you don't need an internet connection. My hotel was next to the city but down the hill. and down the hill and down the hill. I was ready to really get upset that the being' .2 miles from the city center' was ya! if you're a bird. But right across the street from the hotel is another set of six escalators to take you to the top again, so it's not that bad. The hotel, though called moderno, was modern in the post war era. The beds are clean, the room is large, the bath is large and I only sleep here. It's almost noon on a Sunday, and I'll leave you with a couple of shots of Siena form last night.
Duomo in Siena

Siena Humor - Eve and the Apple

Everyone Having Fun??
Couldn't resist - I saw this in a store window and it was just too...(add your term here)
Have a great Sunday
Ciao

Friday, September 26, 2014

Cinque Terra - The Movie Set

This is a comment I overheard as I was walking around Vernazza yesterday. That is the supposed most picturesque of the five villages making up the Cinque Terra chain of villages. To continue that metaphor, the villages and villagers all seemed tired of the roles they had been given for this year's summer stock play. They just wanted the tourists to all leave so they could hang up their 'costumes' and become the villagers of the little fishing village they love so much. Oh, yes the money the 'audience' brings in is nothing to sneeze at, but when you take a small place with a population in the hundreds and for four to five months they have to deal with tens of thousands of people, I can see how that would wear on you.
I wasn't able to get a room in one of the five villages - they were sold out - so I stayed just north in Deiva Marina and I am so happy I did. I stayed at the Hotel Clelia and it is a three star 'resort' near the beach there and they make no excuses for their catering to tourists. The room was the best I have stayed in so far, the staff very helpful and they have an excellent restaurant serving local foods. A little expensive, but it is a resort. The town, even here goes from a population of around nine hundred to over ten thousand during the summer. Another reason I was happy with my choice was when I saw the travelers in Riomaggiore, the favored village by several tour books, hauling their luggage up the hand hewn rock steps up to their quaint little room. I had a lift to the second floor.
The villages are picturesque and the colors, though fading and chipping, are memorable for their 'Mediterranean' look. All stacked up atop and next to each other. The ferry boats that go from village to village is the only way to travel here, unless you are an avid hiker. But two of the trails were closed and that limited their walks.
Off to Siena today on my way to Florence and the tons of tourists I'll find there, but with a week I should be able to pick and choose my battles.
I'll leave you with a shot of a fisherman in the setting sun.
Fishing at Deiva Marina, Italy
Ciao

Wednesday, September 24, 2014

Okay, It's Official!! I'm swamped.

I have just been taking pictures and not having any time to even look at them and do a fast edit for the ones I think will be worth working on in HDR, or something else. I have a s@#t load of files to go through!!! Something for the rainy (I hope for SoCal) winter days.
Last time I was able to post was after Milan, then there was Venice and now I am in Lucca and tomorrow I am off to Cinque Terra and then into Siena before settling in to Florence for an extended period.
I am beginning to see that I am drawn to places with or around water. The Lakes in Italy - Como - Venice, where everything goes by boat, and the ocean of course. The one thing I am tired of is fighting with the tourists for position for taking a photo or getting in line to go through an attraction. I am saving my 'indoor' jaunts for Florence.
Venice was great to be out on the water. The convenience of the water "buses' was even relaxing. I took the tour around Venice a couple of times just the see it from the water.
I have noticed a subtle difference between the French and the Italians. Both their languages use a lot of letters to spell their words. The French realize this and drop letters in speaking constantly. You look at a word spelled out and hear it spoken and it's "how did they come to that??!" Now the Italians also know they have way too many letters in their words, but they insist on pronouncing each and every one. An Italian can be telling you something and you can go to the restroom and come back and they are still telling you the same story.
Why Lucca?, you may have said. Well it is on the way to the west from Venice and it is a small fortified city that Napoleon took a fancy to and didn't have it torn down, and there was no military presence here in the war, so no Allied bombing, and that means there are plenty of very old - original - churches and murals and buildings. AND there are not a lot of tourists. Some but no crowds.
Just so you know I was in Venice

Where are all the boats? Simple - 10 stop ND at 15 sec and puff - they're gone. Levels the water too.

Storm eating the sunset. Followed by marble sized hale.

Oh! Not to forget - a great dinner last night at one of +Rick Steves' recommendations - Osteria Via S. Giorgio. Had a pasta with a light gorgonzola sauce with small pieces of melon. Yum! and then I went all out for the Fiermente steak that was a T-Bone and the juiciest piece of meat I have had in years. I'm still full.
Ciao

Thursday, September 18, 2014

Milan - Fashion Week

And I thought that Paris was full of clothes shops. All the 'Fashion Mavens' all over the place and the Russian Ballet opening the season at La Scala AND the Milan Film Festival. Oh, did I mention that it is overcast and on again off again drizzles. As Rick Steves' says "Milan is an exhausting city for walking' , but I did the best I could.
Got mostly around the Parco Sempione, the Castello Sforzesco and of course I braved the pickpockets at the Duomo. but with the weather and my head a little stuffy, I didn't want to push it and be sick for Venice - my next stop - tomorrow.
Here are a few shots, though not my most inspired day. Better people watching and they go onto Google+ instead of here. Got to look now don't ya?
Building has a bigger 'sword' don't you think? Duomo, Milan

Castle Milan from the park

TGV to Venice in the morning and I'm off for a pizza before bed.
Ciao

Wednesday, September 17, 2014

Oops! It's Wednesday Already

I got out of Torino with all my gear (my backpack almost got boosted in train station - No harm on foul, though much more leery now in public.)
Went to Varenna on Sunday to the heart of the Italian Lake District. I now see why those who have money want to find a lakeside villa and wile away their moments with quiet tranquility. It is such a fabulous place and is at the top of my list - so far - for a return visit. The time for my being here has been with low tourist traffic and good weather, though a little hazy but that's just me. Varenna is at the center of the Mid-lake area of Lake Como with the ferries running many hours between Varenna-Bellagio-Tremezzo-Menagio. All the places you want to see. It takes no more than a few minutes to go between any of these villages and less than an hour to make the circuit. Varenna being the less 'glitzy' of the bunch and fewer upscale shops. Wander around, find a nice shady bench and watch the lake rise and fall - OR - find a table near the water, order a limoncello, sip, watch, sip, watch - you get the idea. New favorite pastime. Food is good - it's Italy - come on! I'm very happy with the decision to come here.
Varenna

Menagio Harbor

Peaceful Garden at Villa Melzi - Bellagio

Sunset From Varenna

Varenna Night where the Ferry Lands
I am now in Milano, using a WiFi in the room and will go out and explore before Dinner. I hear there is a dynamite gelato shop not far from the hotel - other new best thing to do in Italy!!
Ciao

Saturday, September 13, 2014

Cliff Notes - France to Itlaia

The last three days have been just like the rest - Fabulous!!! Is it great to say that??
I left Paris on the TGV to Lyon on Thursday. Why stop in Lyon?
For the Lumiere Musee, I wish I had more fore knowledge about them and their work in Film history, but Edison and Eastmen crowd them out in the States. The Museum is in their old house - beautiful, and innovative in its day as well. The factory for their plates was right out their front door, but is all gone now.
For the Roman ruins on the hill in the old part of the city. There is a large and small amphitheater there, a good early history museum that was closed just as I arrived. Well I choose the Lumiere over them just in case. The amphitheater is used for concerts and plays today, it is still good.
Walked the old town and had dinner at Les Lyonaisse, where I tried the Salade Lyonaisse - made with greens, onions, tomatoes, croutons, Cooked 'bacon' the size of the croutons and topped off with a poached egg. Wonderful. I have never tried a Quenelle. I thought I was eating a cloud, it was so fluffy and smooth. It is a combination of pike - very well pureed (NO, NO, NO - don't think of the "Bass-o-matic"!!), poached and I think baked to finish in a Lobster sauce that I threatened the waiter with bodily harm if he attempted to remove the casserole plate before I had soaked up every drop of the sauce with my bread. I don't know I will ever again taste such mouth watering goodness again!!
Friday - Let for Turin and not knowing I had to reserve a seat on the TGV (thought it was just a regular train) the folks at the train sent me on to Chembery near the France/Italian border. The +, it is a beautiful little town nestled along a lake near the mountains. Worth a visit if you can. The -, not knowing if I'd get to Turin. Long story short, the conductor got me on, he had a little eight seat room in a car just for people like me I think. Met a young lady from Austrailian traveling as I am. Checked in to my room - great. (Side bar - The Italian government changed the 'star ratings' rules in the last couple of years and some formerly 4 star places are now 3 stars hotel. I think it has to do with the number of rooms and such, for the quality of this place "Hotel Valentino du Parc" is exceptional. Three stars will be just fine for me.)
Spent the day roaming around Turin and and now I am back, downloading and getting ready for a massage. I hear I am on vacation and I am allowed to do these sort of things. I shot a lot of captures today and I'll try to include some, but no guarantee.
This is the Bridge Passerelle du Palais de Justice over the Soame River in Lyon, with the Cathedral Fourviere on the hill.
Just two guys hanging around by the river all in white paint. You'd think they'd get cold.
Still downloading today and time for my massage.
Off to Lake Come tomorrow and staying in Vareena.
Chio